The Gharchola sarees may be woven and dyed anywhere in Kutch, but the final red color is given in Jamnagar. This is because there is an old belief in Kutch which says that the waters of Jamnagar have auspicious properties which when used for dying a bridal Gharchola saree will produce the most brilliant shade of red that a bride can ever have for her wedding ceremony.

Most Gharcholas have traditional patterns such as “bavan bagh” or Fifty-Two Gardens, “Ras Leela” or the depiction of Lord Krishna dancing with his Gopis, etc.

Our Gharcholas are made with the traditional, fine variety of cotton worn by Gujarati brides for their wedding ceremonies and are available with real zari work and tested artificial zari work.

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List of Available Dress Materials

Designer Dress Material, Traditional Dress Material, Printed Dress Material,Casual Dress Material, Crepe Dress Material,Party Dress Material, Silk Dress Material

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The word Embroidery comes from the Anglo-Saxon word for “edge”, but the technique itself was being used long before that. The term was first applied to decoratively stitched borders on medieval church vestments. But over time it came to cover all stitched decoration on any textile fabric. It is an art of hand weaving which is done with the help of needle. It also known as needlework.

Embroidery is the thread that connects women through all the centuries of our history, no matter how much our lifestyles change. We have always shared that passion, or at times, the necessity.

Embroidery has become the most elegant and enriching part of the craft heritage of India. The needlework tradition dates back to 2300-1500 BC and has been richly inherited by various regions, each having special style and an individual inspiration.

Each state here is specialist in its own kind of embroidery like, Kashmiri embroidered saris vividly reflects the exuberance of nature and is characterized by paisley motifs and lovely landscapes, while Chamba (Himachal Pradesh) embroidery is inspired by the miniature paintings of the Mughal rule, depicting courtly life and mythological characters.

These vast range of embroidered sarees has been emerged from the use of a variety of threads. Like the floss silk thread used to create motifs of flowers is the main highlight of ‘phulkari’ embroidery on these Indian ethnic saris, popular in Punjab. ‘Chikan’ work of Lucknow (Uttar Pradesh) is characterized by the delicate embroidery in white threads either in cotton or in silk. ‘Zardozi’ of Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh) is worked in gold thread and the threads from the old saree borders have created the beautiful ‘Kantha ‘ work of West Bengal.

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Ladies Kurti is one of the the most liked garment not only among gents but also among ladies. Women’s Kurta popularly known as kurti is a stylish and gorgeous clothing. It is a loose long sleeved shirt, from shoulders to the knees or something nearby it. The size comes in varying lengths. Some kurtis are as long as to knees whereas the length of some of the Kurtis are up to waist only. The arm width of the sleeve don’t change from shoulders to wrist.

For different seasons, there are different types of Kurtis available. Usually it is worn with loose salwar pants and with churidar pants (pajamas) which is a tight-fitting variant of the salwar. Now-a-days it is designed to be wore on jeans or trousers. Kurtis are worn as daily casual wear as well as formal dress. Kurta is suitable for all occasions starting from home to college to office to any formal occasions which give a very elegant and graceful look.

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History

Kurta is a Persian/Urdu word. It means a collarless shirt. It is a traditional type of dress worn generally by the people of Indian sub-continents. Kurta was used to be one of the main clothing for the natives of Asian countries like India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Afghanistan. People used to wear it on different occasions like any festival or any fair or any family function. Kurta had different looks earlier. It came as sherwani, pathan-dress, golband and many more. Earlier kurta was the dress of gents only. But gradually it became the most sought after clothing for ladies.

Style

The kurtas come with and without collars. The type of collars are as in sherwani and achkans. It is generally U-shaped or V-shaped around the neck. Kurtis generally have a front opening. Some of them have buttons. The upper front portion is embroidered with threads of silk, cotton, gold, silver, or other material, upon any woven fabric, leather or paper.

Embroidery, printed designs, embellishments with beads, laces, mirrors etc. also enhance the overall look of these fashionable kurtas. Beads and mirror work is used to beautify these kurtas.

Fabric

The fabric used in Kurtis mainly depend upon the seasons. Summer Kurtis are made of cotton fibers or thin silk threads. These are very light weight and soft. It gives a sexy look and comfort feel. Winter kurtis are made of thicker fabric such as wool or khadi silk, a thick, coarse, hand spun and handwoven mixed with other fibers. Winter Kurtis provide style, fashion along with protection from cold.

The common fabrics used in Ladies Kurti are:

• Cotton
• Silk
• Wool
• Georgette
• Chiffon
• Khadi Silk
• Satin
• Crepe

Types of Kurtis

Ladies kurta can be of following types:

Sleeveless kurta:
Best suited for summers. The light weight and soft sleeveless kurtis are the most sought after clothing during hot weather. It is available with or without collars. The collared kurtis are designed with fine threads of gold, silk, cotton or other materials. Summer kurtis have chikan embroidery around the edges and upper front.

As mostly used in summers the fabric must soak sweat, should be soft to skin and allow air to pass through. Kurtis are available in array of colors, patterns, shades. These can be plain, printed or embroidered. The quality and design vary from simple one to designer’s creation.

Half sleeved kurta:
Absolutely perfect for offices, parties, marketing, travel. Available in innumerable designs and shades. Plain and check kurtis are much sought items. Designs of flowers, leaves, print, checks etc. injects a energetic approach to your attitude.

Full sleeved kurta:
This type of garment each lady would like to have it in her wardrobe. They can be worn by females of all age groups starting from kids, teenagers to working women. It gives a unique look to you. Innumerable designs and styles are available for full sleeved kurtis. Kurtis heavily embroidered around collars, upper front and wrist are best suited for wedding ceremonies or parties. These Kurtis are used in all seasons.

Kurta describes your personality and attitude in a stylish way . It defines your character and enhances your reputation. Wearing Kurta makes one feel taller.

The contemporary fashion scene seems to be looking back into the past for inspiration. The Chaniya-Choli, an old favourite is all the rage—even finding favour in the fashion streets of Europe. Designers today, by juxtaposing old and new have succeeded in creating a most versatile dress code for the nineties.

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In ethnic wear a garment that is giving strong competition to the salwarkameez on the fashion charts in the 90s is not the sari but the chaniya-choli. The chaniya or ghagra as it is often called has very strong traditions that date back to nearly 1500 B.C. with the coming of the Aryans in India. The Vedas (coming from the root word vid which means knowledge) have given indications in classics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata that the chaniya-choli was the favourite outfil for the women of that era. In a popular episode of the Mahabharata, naughty Lord Krishna known for his mischief in his childhood is believed to have hidden the chaniya-cholis of Radha, his friend, and the gopis (young girls) while they were taking a dip in the stream. The garba or dandiya raa.s a popular dance of Gujarat which is performed with sticks during the nine nights of Navratri prior to the Dusshera festival, requires the ladies to wear the chaniya-choli. It is the swirling movements of the dance that need a more flared garment. The sari being quite restrictive is not suitable.

In modern times, it was the screening of popular TV serials like the Ramayana and Mahabharata that gave a tremendous boost to the chaniya-choli as a fashion garment. No longer is the garment restricted to just the nine nights before Dusshera; it is now a co-ordinate worn by girls throughout the year. As an outfit it has universal appeal since anyone from the age of 6-60 years can wear it.

The home of the chaniya-choli is no doubt Kutch, Gujarat and Rajasthan. The outfit is popular in the west and north of India. In the south, another more streamlined version known as the pavade is popular. Fabrics that are used for chaniya-cholis normally range from cotton, silk to khadi and at times chiffon, organza, satin cotton, raw silk and brocade. But the last variety is only for weddings and formal occasions.

“It is the embroidery and the shape that makes all the difference to the chaniya-choli and one can identify it with the occasion it is meant for,” explains designer, Bela Parekh who creates ethnic chaniya-cholis.

“For Navratri, the ethnic mirrorwork embroidery is popular with a bit of patchwork. The flare of the chaniya should be about nine metres wide. While for formal wear and weddings the embroidery is heavier in pearls, silk sequins and zari. Here the chaniya is umbrella shaped,” she adds.

The accompanying choli comes in various lengths and shapes. It could be short and fitted like a choli or long, extending below the waist in a loose blouse fashion or it could be the kurti or kanjri style with mirrorwork and a backless tie-up look. It is this kanjri that is very popular and an extremely feminine item. The mirrorwork embroidery is very distinctive of the region of Kutch and it is a family tradition passed down through generations. The work is exquisitely colourful with flashing mirrors bound in with colourful thread. Very often the blouse sports rows of shells which tinkle as the wearer moves. The fabric base colour is very earthy in shades of maroon, black, blue, brown, beige. Some of the chaniyas are hand block printed and then embellished with mirror or embroidered patches. The price of a chaniya-choli could very from as little as Rs. 100/- to even Rs. 10,000/- depending on the base material and embellishments.

Along with the chaniya-choli an odhni is an integral part of the garment. It is in printed, plain or embroidered form and it does not necessarily match the chaniya-choli. Some of the heavily embroidered odhnis with mirrorwork could cost as much as Rs. 6000/-. In the last six years the chaniya-choli has not only turned into a national craze but has also crossed the seas and become a popular garment in the west and east. Countries like USA, UK, Mauritius, Canada, Fiji, Dubai, South Africa. Singapore, Nairobal and Japan are some of the countries where chaniya-cholis have a ready market.

Today nearly 60 per cent of chaniya-cholis are exported. “Manufacturers create 2-3 designs per week and at any given time nearly 500 designs are ready. UK is one of the biggest importers of chaniya-cholis from India,” informs Bela.

Chaniya-cholis are sold all over the country and there are nearly 2000 shops that retail in them. “A set consisting of chaniya-choli and odhni could be exclusive or it could run into 300 pieces per style. The various manufacturers have large capacities running into 200 pieces per day,” says Bela who, however, specializes in exclusive one-of-a-kind pieces. The creation of a chaniya-choli takes a couple of weeks to create as the fabrics are embroidered in Gujarat, Kutch and Rajasthan and sent to different craftsmen after which they are stitched into garments. The tradition of embroidery in India dates back to the ancient past. But there are some references to it in the 13th century by explorers like Marco. Polo when he passed through India.

The form of embroidery done in Kutch starts with sketches on the material in free style. Though there is some uniformity in the geometrics of the designs, it may vary in size and shape. Not many craftsmen, however, draw. Some even use the grid arrangement or block print the designs. Yet the artists given full vent to their imagination as they fill in the designs with colourful threads and mirrors with very detailed fine work, uniform in appearance and intricately executed.

At any given time over 500 workers in Gujarat. Kutch and Saurashtra are engaged in the production of chaniya-cholis. Nearly 70 per cent of the work is by hand in the form of embroidery and intricate embellishments. Each artisan tries his utmost to perfect his design and create a beauteous item “Unlike a salwar-kameez where there are just 2 to 3 items of raw material used to create a garment, in the case of a chaniya-choli nearly 25 different types of raw materials are used to make a swirling chaniya-choli nearly 25 different types of raw materials are used to make a swirling chaniya-choli and because of this one can only produce about three sets a week whereas in the case of a salwar-kameez the production would go upto nearly 50 pieces a week,” reveals Bela.

There are various tribes of Kutch that specialize in certain types of embroidery. The Rohanas specialize in skirt work and they work on maroon handspun cloth in shades to deep saffron, bright yellow, rust and navy thread.

The Sodhas use a geometric style for their embroidery and are famous for their kerchiefs, and turbans. The Garacia Jats are experts in tiny embroidery on the yoke which inter-mingles with red, orange, blue and green threads. While the Dhanetah Jats love embroidering broad pear shaped mirrors using orange, black, yellow and red in chain stitch.

The beauty of the chaniya-choli lies in the two separate parts of the garment. While he chaniya or skirt is flowing and flares around the wearer the choli or blouse is a snugly fitted piece of clothing that accentuates the female form. The odhni, the third part of the total garment, acts as a scarf or covering for the head and body and is a sign of modest shyness for the wearer.

Because of the vagaries of weather at times the work of the artisans slows down causing several deadlines to be missed. A highly intricately embroidered fabric could even take a year to complete. “No doubt the chaniya-choli is the daily wear of the various people of Rajasthan, Gujarat and Kutch but it will soon become the daily wear of women in urban cities in India as well as in the west, because it is easily acceptable by all. Similar to the western skirt and blouse the chaniya-choli’s ornate designs will create excitement amongst the fashion conscious women,” predicts Bela.

From ancient history to the 20th century the chaniya-choli has made a long journey that has sustained it as a garment of fashionable interest to not only the Indian women but women in the west as well.

Every Bandhani saree goes through a rather difficult and time-consuming process. First the cloth is tied at several places. This is done by holding up a small part of the cloth and tying it up several times with a thread. It is done so that when the saree is dyed, the tied portion stays as before. A Bandhai saree is tied at around a hundred places. The tying up is done keeping in mind a design. The cloth is then dipped into dye for a five to ten minutes. It is then taken out and dried. If more colors or an elaborate design is to be made, the saree is then tied again according to the design to be formed and then dipped into a different colored dye.

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Red, black, pink, yellow and green are mostly used in Bandhani sarees. All the colors used are bright and contrasting with each other. After all, Rajasthan is famous for its vibrant colors. Nowadays, as pastel shades are growing popular, you will find even pastel shades on Bandhani work. The trend has caught Bandhani in its grip too!

You can get various designs in Bandhani like squares, stripes, dots, waves, tear-shaped dots etc. Also, popular designs such as Lehriya, Ekdali, Shikari and Mothda are also made by the process of tie and dye. You can even find flowers, bells, plant shapes, mountain patterns in tie and dye.

There are various tie and dye centers in Rajasthan and Gujarat. In Rajasthan, Jaipur, Barmer, Pali, Sikar, Udaipur, Bikaner, Nathdwara and Jodhpur are famous for their high-quality Bandhanis. Jamnagar in Gujarat is famous for its Bandhani. Also, Kutch, Ahemdabad, Mandvi and Bhuj also produce finest Bandhani works.

These are various types of cloths on which Bandhani work is done like silk, cotton, muslin, handloom, voile etc. For dying the cloth, vegetables dyes or synthetic dyes are used. Embroidery work is further done on the Bandhani to give it a decorative look. You will also find zari work, gotta etc. For weddings, silver and gold embroidery is done on the Bandhani, giving it a rich look.

Leheriya (pattern of the waves) is another popular design of Rajasthan. In Leheriya, only two colors are used. These two colors are used alternatively. Wave like stripes are formed by using these two colors. Leheriya is worn throughout India, especially in Northern India.

Traditionally, only bright colors were used for Leheriya, but Leheriya is catching up with fashion. Now, you will find pastel and English shades in it too.

Bandhej or Bandhani is the Art of royalty - The tie-dyed fabrics of Gujarat are perhaps the best produced in India. Also known as Bandhej. Bandhni sarees are created by dyeing the cloth in such a manner that many small resist-dyed ‘spots’ produce elaborate patterns over the fabric. The traditional bandhani saree market has shrunk however, because of the rise of low-cost silk-screened imitations and most modern bandhani sarees are made with larger designs and fewer ties than in the past.

Signs of civilization in the region that is now Gujarat date back to the period from 3000 to 1500 BC. The region was part of the Mauryan Empire in the 3rd century BC under King Ashoka. In 1818 the British East India Company took control of Gujarat administering the state through local princely rulers. With the independence of India in 1947, Gujarat became part of the state of Bombay. In 1960 Bombay state was split up, and Gujarat was formed from the northern and western portions, which were predominantly Gujarati-speaking areas. The remainder of Bombay state became Maharashtra state.

The state of Gujarat has been blessed with a rich and vibrant tradition of handicrafts. Handicrafts were originally based on home production for daily use. Each article was made almost entirely by hand. Skilled men and women, whose work was distinguished by their inherent good taste and by the economical use of raw materials, made each article. Handcrafted products were sturdy yet were graced with tremendous visual appeal and have been greatly sought after. Amongst the traditional handicrafts of Gujarat are numerous things that a discerning buyer would wish to admire and acquire. The range of offerings spans a wide array of furniture, jewellery, metalwork items, embroidered garments, colorful linen, leatherwork, beadwork, mirror work, baked clay articles etc. All these are created to reflect the lifestyle, culture and above all the spirit of Gujarat.

Bandhani is an ancient, resist-dyeing technique, which is widely used in areas of Northern India such as Gujaratand Rajasthan. The fabric is tied in intricate patterns with the help of nails, beads or grain, which prevents the colour from seeping into the tied areas during dyeing. The technique has been so perfected that the most intricate patterns emerge in discharge, with vibrant backgrounds.

Bandhani • Bandhani sarees are created by dyeing the cloth in such a manner that many small resist-dyed ‘spots’ produce elaborate patterns over the fabric.

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